Salar de Atacama
We shopped around town for a tour out to the salt flats and found one that would take us to two different lagunas or pools and then to the large expanse of salt for sunset. Heading out of town on the highway in a large van our guide pointed out natural and cultural features of the area. He explained the how cultural changes were leading the younger generation to abandon the farming life style of their parents in favor of moving to bigger cities. In addition the changing weather patterns had meant less rain and snow in the highlands which lead to less ground water in the valley making it harder and harder to grow crops. Decades of deforestation had increased wind erosion and further changed the landscape. Now reforestation projects could been seen in nice even rows of trees planted on the edges of San Pedro.
Turning off the paved road the adventure began. Driving through desert at breakneck speeds only to suddenly slow to a crawl to navigate truly treacherous stretches while all the time bouncing around in the bumpy back of the bus made me glad I was not susceptible to motion sickness. At times it did not seem as if we were following a set track or road at all and I wondered how the driver could find his way.
After what seemed like forever we arrived at the Laguna Cejas a group of salt water ponds feed from underground. The water is so salty that floating is effortless. You can float fully upright as if you are standing and your shoulders will still be out of the water. After emerging and drying off in the sun the salt crystals are literally caking your body.
Our next stop is the Ojos de Salar or Eyes of the Salt. These are two round fresh water pools where you can rinse the crust of salt from your skin and clothes. We only stopped here for twenty minutes because the real attraction is the salt flats at sunset.
Once you reach this flat expanse of white salt you can see why we hurried to get here. It is unearthly whether viewing the salt formations close up or standing to gaze across the expanse. We were able to watch the sunset gradually take place as the sky and salt changed colors with the motion of the sun. The view was breathtaking and achingly beautiful.
After sun down and a quick snack of Pisco Sours, potato chips and peanuts (amazingly spending four hours in the salt desert I was really craving salty foods!) we piled back on the bus for the bumpy, windy trip home. This was a truly remarkable trip and one that few people have experienced.